Thirteen years ago next month, I first came to Cambodia as a beady eyed, ignorant sixteen year old; eager to see the world and discover new cultures. This country captured my heart the moment I arrived and thus dictated my path over the following decade. Today, I leave Cambodia and, I must admit, the country which I fell in love with has broken my heart, just a little.
For the most part, this is a happy blog. It’s about the friends I met, the opportunities I seized, the memories which will stay with me forever. But, before I get all nostalgic, one thing must be noted. This country has changed, as all countries do. And while the old Cambodia I fell in love with is still here, I’m now only seeing glimpses of that world, as international development and influences sweep through. I won’t name names. But let’s just say the speed of “their” economic expansion here has been terrifying and needs to be reined in. I think it’s safe to criticise this “government” when you’re about to board a plane, right? I just hope the charming, friendly, beautiful country which I once knew manages to retain as much of its culture as possible. From where I stand, it’s slipping away, one casino at a time.
The decision to leave after living here for five years wasn’t made overnight. It was carefully considered but I came to the conclusion that I was ready to move on and that Cambodia was no longer the place for me. It was a decision I couldn’t have imagined making eighteen months ago but now, sat in the taxi on the way to the airport, I can’t imagine staying. Life changes fast sometimes. Not everything changes; I keep my job thanks to my wonderful boss. I’m bringing my cat because who doesn’t want to invest $1,000 in a bundle of fur who bites you if she’s bored of being stroked? And I’ll be returning to my childhood home, where my wonderful parents are graciously allowing me to return for a few months.
A lot has happened in the past five years, let alone the past thirteen. A levels, gap years (two), undergraduate degree, masters degree, teaching, setting up a charity, starting to write, getting paid to write, working for a business, becoming a team manager. You never know where life will take you but I’ve been riding the waves which crest before me and I’m pretty happy with the direction my board is heading. Heading back to Devon clearly brings out teenage surfer Ruth…
I am of course leaving behind a lot of amazing friends. I’m known (in my mind) for my goodbye blogs, written for people when they leave Cambodia but I’m afraid I don’t have the time nor the emotional energy to write one for all you wonderful people I’m saying farewell to in the kingdom of wonder. So I’ll just say thank you here. Thank you, to each and every one of you. From the friends I met in my first weeks in Phnom Penh back in 2014 to the families who welcomed me into their homes in Kampot to my Khmer friends who have taught me so much about this country and showed me its inner beauty and everyone in between. Thank you, from the bottom of my heart. I feel incredibly privileged to have spent the last five years with a group of kind, funny, intelligent, eclectic individuals. I will miss you all so much but I know this isn’t goodbye forever, just for a while.
And then there are the friends who have already left. Phnom Penh in particular holds ghosts for me, most of them Casper-like. I walk down streets which have changed not-so-subtly over the years and remember dinners, nights out, dodgeball tournaments, tuk tuk journeys and so much more. Some of my closest friendships were formed here and while some have faded over time, a few remain strong, even with oceans between us. I suppose now I’m the one putting oceans between friends. But with technology and determination, these connections can endure. And I’ll make sure they do.
The title of this blog came from one of my closest friends, at the end of my last night in Kampot. You know what? I feel the same way. This country bonds you; the experiences, the challenges, the memories, the moments which make it truly live up to its name of “the Kingdom of Wonder.” Sometimes, wondering is all you can do here. And Cambodia, despite everything you’ve thrown at me and put my some of friends through, you’ll always hold a special place in my heart.
This will be the last blog post for Lemon in Cambodia. Lemon in Devon doesn’t have quite the same ring to it but I’m excited about my new adventure nonetheless. Sat in a taxi, bumping my way towards the airport, with the most expensive cat I will ever own asleep in her travel crate beside me, I know I’ve made the right decision. This is the first time I’ve been leaving Cambodia and felt good about it. Usually I’m sick to my stomach and bawling my eyes out. I’m nervous, I’m sad, but above all else, I can’t wait to find out what happens now. It’s my time, and Nugget’s. I’m ready; for the next chapter, the next challenge, the next step. At the age of 29, I’m growing up, I’m settling down.
Cambodia, you beautiful, illogical, hilarious, insane, friendly, scary, unforgettable place, in the words of Fall Out Boy, thanks for the memories.